The roles of the Elements are as follows: #1 Reflector, #2 Driven Element, #3 and higher = Directors.
Horizontal or vertical polarization is determined by the orientation of the elements.
The driven element is normally a split dipole or a folded dipole. Use a 1:1 current balun (or choke) at the feedpoint to prevent feedline radiation.
Elements can be aluminum tubing or rod. Diameter has a small effect — thicker elements run slightly shorter.
Aluminum tubing (1/4" to 1/2" diameter common on VHF/UHF, larger on HF) works well. Keep elements insulated from a metal boom, or apply a small boom-correction if they pass through the boom.
These calculations give good starting lengths. Final trimming of the driven element for lowest SWR is always recommended.
The gain of a Yagi varies with element spacing and tuning. For any given spacing there is an optimum length that produces maximum forward gain. Maximum front-to-back ratio rarely occurs at the exact same settings that give maximum gain. The driven-element impedance also changes with spacing and tuning, so the antenna should be tuned to its final condition before the final matching is completed.
Note: Adding more than 8–10 elements often results in diminishing returns for gain, a very long boom, narrower bandwidth, and increased mechanical complexity. A well-built 3 to 6 element Yagi is usually the practical sweet spot for most amateur stations.